It’s hard to beat hearing Google Translate’s audio track
deliver compliments or ask questions in a robotic while your Turkish friend and
current flat mate silently mouths the words. Such has been the pattern of many
of our conversations, as he speaks very basic English and I speak far less
Turkish (which isn't saying much). Sometimes we sit side by side and type things into Google Translate,
frequently trying to actually say the words we’re reading, something he is much
better at than me. This is necessary when deciding what to make for dinner.
“What do you want?”
“All things for the good”
Blank stare
“Error?” (types again)
“Anything good”
Ah ok. “I will make something.”
“error”
“I will cook good food”
Ahhhh ok “Let’s go make the shopping”…
I have truly been enjoying this exchange. For two people
with such a large language gap, we manage to communicate very well through
words repeated for emphasis, short phrases and lots of body language. It’s strange to become close friends and forge
such a strong connection with someone where such seemingly daunting barrier
exists.
Turkish hospitality has so far blown me away in the form of Mehmet and Gokhan. Mehmet is my Turkish friend I met two years ago while he was
doing a summer exchange program and working in Maryland. I had met his Egyptian
roommate Mohamed first, and subsequently met “the Turkish boys.” Mehmet and his best friend Gokhan have been
letting me stay with them until Lindsey and I could find a room to split
somewhere more centrally located. The guys have been amazing, insisting on
buying groceries until I get work, copying a key for me, and generally making
me feel right at home. Mehmet picked me up from the airport via public
transport and insisted on carrying both of my duffels through two forms of
transportation and several kilometers of walking. Gokhan lays out a breakfast buffet for us whenever
he is home in the mornings, which has been very enjoyable—especially with the
delicious fresh bread Turkey has to offer. I really cannot express how grateful
I am to have these guys as friends, and how much I am enjoying their
personalities and friendship.
Unfortunately, the boys live about an hour from the city
center, which means a long and relatively expensive metrobus ride to get to
Lindsey’s current flat, and basically all job possibilities, nightlife
activities, etc. However, I haven’t minded much currently, as I spend a lot of
time in the flat on my computer, applying for jobs; and when I’m not doing
that, I can leisurely ride down for
interviews. And I have enjoyed fixing dinner whenever I’m home at dinner time using
some of the most delicious produce I have ever tasted. I would live in Turkey
forever just to eat the tomatoes every day. I have even cooked an original
chicken dish—one of the first times I have ever cooked a meal involving meat. Those
of you who know my cooking habits: pick your jaw off the floor; yes I handled
raw meat, and yes I washed my hands a million times. The boys have been
enjoying my culinary enthusiasm, as their version of dinner is perfect for
everyone on that fancy new carbs and fried foods diet, but doesn’t include many
nutrients.
I’ve been here in Istanbul for over a week now, and the shock
is starting to wear off. I’ve never experienced culture shock like I have here.
I expected it to be very different from Egypt, but the historic Istanbul I
pictured in my head was no preparation for this vast expanse of city brimming
wit skyscrapers and shopping malls. I wasn’t sure how to process all this. This
is, in part, because Istanbul is much bigger and more fast-paced than any city
I have ever lived in; and on top of this—I don’t speak the language—at
all—which has been a near first in my travels. Adding to my “whelm” has been
the extreme change in prices. I went from a country where 1 dollar equaled 6.7
pounds to a country where 1 dollar is only 1.7 Lira—and the prices aren’t much
cheaper than the US either (with the exception of haircuts which are only 5
Lira!).
So re-cap. I moved to a country where I don’t know the
language, have yet to find a job and where the exchange rate does not lend
itself to relying on my dwindling savings account. Needless to say, I have had
several panic moments.
I have, however, developed several leads in the paying job
search (English teaching and au-pairing) as well as the refugee volunteer work
arena (not bad for only being here just over a week). Step one and two. I have
contacted a Palestinian on CouchSurfing
to practice Arabic with in exchange for English practice. Step three. Lindsey
and I just committed (after some searching) to sharing a room in a duplex
apartment. The room is HUGE and the only reason it’s cheap is that someone has
to walk through our room to get to theirs. We basically have the upstairs
living room, but the landlord will put two beds in (which is nice as we were
prepared to have to share a double for several months), some dividers for
privacy and an extra wardrobe. The room itself is huge and has two couches and
a wall full of large windows overlooking a large portion of this beautiful
city. We’ll be sharing the downstairs common area, kitchen, 2 toilets and
shower with—I forget how many—male foreign exchange students and a couple. It will be like living in a dorm again, most
likely, which has the potential to be both fun and harrowing—but at least we’ll
have our huge loft to retreat to: pictures to come. Step four. To do: get paid and get residence permit
before my account goes too low to be eligible.
Although I have had several moments where I completely
questioned my reasoning for coming here and my sanity (not because of Turkey
but because of the instability I have hurled myself into), I do feel, deep
inside, that moving here was the right move; and my deep-seated need for
adventure and challenge is being thoroughly satiated.
I am also truly
enjoying my exploration of Turkish culture. I love the music, the sound of then
spoken language, the Turkish obsession with house slippers and the unique blend
of regional influences and originality that permeates through Turkish life. I
love how my house mates have people over to talk, play guitar and take turns
singing. I love how Turkish tea—which is actually tastier than other black teas—is
served in cute little cups at all times of day. I love the affectionate and
caring nature of my Turkish friends, which makes me feel in some moments as
though I had lived here my whole life.
In deciding to move here, I kept in mind that it was a complete risk
and I could fall anywhere on the spectrum of success or failure. I decided to
make the move and hoped that in doing so, I would re-learn how to trust God and
that my spirituality would be stimulated once again and I would build anew my
faith. I don’t know what form exactly it will take, and my end goal is not to become more or less religious, but rather to seek the truth, to question and doubt, and continue figuring out what I truly believe. I have to say, so far
I do feel a helping hand and provider as some potentially big obstacles have been
overcome, or near overcome. The terror I felt after re-assessing the financial
aspects of this move has subsided and I feel relative peace about being here--which I cannot imagine is coming from me as I have a very hard time not being in control of my life. I foresee many ups and downs in many different areas of my life; but really, I wouldn't have it any other way.
Don't worry dear, we are here whenever you need! ;)
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